Choosing a iso rod
The 号 number is blank strength, not lure weight. An iso rod marked 1.5号 is telling you what tippet class it is built to protect and what fish it is built to turn. Most fukase fishing sits between 0.8号 and 3号, and the catalog reflects that: those classes hold the bulk of the models. The 4号 and 5号 rods exist for kago work, for larger fish, and for ground where you can afford to let nothing run. Match the rod class to the tippet you actually intend to fish, which for typical gure and chinu work means roughly 1号 to 4号 nylon, about 4 to 16 lb.
Length is line control. 5.3 m is the standard and the single most common length in this catalog by a wide margin, with 5.0 m next. The reach buys mending: holding line above broken water, keeping a drift in the lane you have baited, and steering a hooked fish clear of the rock at your feet. Shorter 4.5 m rods trade some of that control for handling on tight marks.
Weight matters more than usual. You hold this rod in your hand for the whole session. Typical iso rods run between roughly 210 g and 285 g, and 50 g is a difference you feel by the end of a day.
Action should be parabolic. The blank has to bend well down into the butt to cushion a fine tippet against a fish accelerating into structure. A fast tip over a stiff mid section will break you off.
Construction. Telescopic is the norm for the Japanese makers, and close to universal at Gamakatsu and Nissin. Guides are small and numerous, which is what keeps a light line under control along a long blank. Interline models remove the guides entirely and earn their keep on windy, spray-exposed marks.